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Process behind the opulence of Chanderi

Process behind the opulence of Chanderi

Chanderi fabric has acquired its space from Vedas to Vogue. This timeless beautiful fabric goes through a long and hard process until it reaches the wearer. The initial stage of making it into a reality is called pre-weaving and it is a collection of various carefully woven steps.


After procuring the silk yarn and dyeing it, weaver wounds the yarn on reels to prepare the warp and weft. Then the yarn goes on pirns with the help of a charkha. Warping is a specialized process and the warp yarns are wound on bobbins that are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. 


The next task involves passing the warp through the reed and the healds. The warp threads are then joined to the old warp threads. This process takes nearly 3-4 days.


Before the actual weaving begins, the weaver sets the design of the border and the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to a vertical harness called jala. This process takes anywhere between 3-4 days depending on the complexity of the design. 


Chanderi fabric, as we know it, is popular for its sheer texture, lightweight and glossy transparency and stage number two on its making is responsible for providing that to the fabric. The process is called Weaving and it requires one/two highly skilled weavers working on traditional pit looms with a throw shuttle. 


Chanderi sarees are famous for their drape with a rich border at the ‘pallu’ and embellishments/butis, spread all across the six yards. This finishing touch is given in the third and final stage. The Chanderi zari comes in three shades - Copper, Silver, and Golden and this ornamentation of fabric is done on the fly-shuttle looms.



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